930
viewsA Real Slice of America: The Okefenokee Swamp
By shetravelsnearandfar, Wednesday, August 4, 2010Whenever my British family comes to visit, we always take a good old American road trip together. They say it gives them a sense of how we “real” Americans live, a taste of the genuine article they just don’t get from news flashes on the BBC. And you know what- I think they’re right.
During their last trip, they requested a trek to the Okefenokee Swamp. One of the largest peat-based swamps in the world, the Okefenokee covers 600 square miles along the Georgia/Florida border. I bummed swamp tips off a good friend, respected naturalist photographer Marc DelSantro*, and a few weeks later, my husband (the Brit), his sister, her husband, my niece (5), nephew (3) and I headed out on our adventure.
The East Entrance- Suwanee Canal Recreation Area
We planned to spend our first day at the Eastern entrance of the swamp, which provides an authentic, natural experience. Though it was only April, we wanted to get an early start as temperatures were expected to rise into the 80s. For this reason, we’d travelled down from Atlanta the night before: skirt.com/shetravelsnearandfar/blog/okefenokee-adventure-begins
The East Entrance features the Swamp Island Drive, a great introduction to all the Okefenokee has to offer. We headed straight to stop #12, the ¾ mile boardwalk and observation tower. It was a pleasant stroll, and the kids were in good spirits, keeping their eyes peeled for frogs, snakes, dragonflies and spiders. When we reached the tower overlooking a large swamp prairie (think “big pond”), we quickly spotted several large alligators, and used the free telescopes to get a closer look.
The gators had just come out of hibernation and mating season had begun, so we were treated to the bellowing of the males as they wooed the alligator ladies. Their calls were utterly primeval. My usually cool and controlled sister-in-law decided she was ready to get the heck out of there. As the calls of one male moved closer and closer to the boardwalk (about 8 inches above the water), we were inclined to agree. Click here to experience an alligator bellow for yourself: www.youtube.com/watch
We continued along the Drive to the Chesser Family Homestead, where we learned how swamp families carved out a living in this challenging environment. Founded by W. T. Chesser in the late 1800s, his descendants occupied this six-room building, without electricity or running water, until the 1950s. The Chessers were Primitive Baptists, so even when such modern conveniences became available, their beliefs did not allow installing them on any property they owned. Mrs. Iva Chesser, the last person to occupy the homestead, did eventually get herself some air conditioning via a loophole- she moved in with her son in town- a home she didn’t own. Given the heat and humidity we experienced that day, we decided she was one clever lady!
We finished our tour of the Swamp Island Drive, passing more alligators and turtles in the borrow ditches along the side of the road. We had no trouble heeding the many “don’t exit car” signs, snapping our photos via rolled-down windows.
Back at the Visitor’s center, my husband and I booked a sunset swamp cruise with Okefenokee Adventures**. The daytime cruises were all at least 45 minutes, and we thought that might be too much for the kids. Shorter trips are available at the North Entrance, so we headed there for the afternoon.
The North Entrance- Okefenokee Swamp Park
This part of the swamp is touristy, more like a mini zoo with boat and train rides, designed with young kids in mind. The various activities were all short and well-timed so guests could move easily from one to the other without much wait. In short order, my niece and nephew saw a reptile exhibit, pet live snakes and a baby alligator, took a quick boat trip through a corner of the swamp, and fell asleep on a train ride through the woods.
If you don’t have kids of say seven and under, we’d give this entrance a miss. It’s more expensive, and in terms of maintenance, seems to have seen better days. Touches like the electric fence keeping the lone otter in his pen and greasy food choices didn't exude that "back to nature" feeling.
We did, however, learn our fun fact of the trip here:
Question: How is the sex of baby alligators determined?
Answer: By the temperature when the eggs hatch. At 85 degrees and less, you get girls; 91 degrees and over, you get boys; in between, it’s a toss up.
Our Sunset Cruise
That evening, Mark and I returned for our sunset swamp cruise. The heat of the day had lifted, and the soft light brought the sights and sounds of the swamp into focus. After motoring through a long canal, and passing a few campsites for the more adventurous (raised wooden platforms hovering over the water), we entered the great prairie- a huge expanse of water resplendent with colorful aquatic plants.
Our guide was knowledgeable and funny, our fellow guests quietly respectful of the vegetation, the animals, the sheer beauty of it all. This was the Okefenokee. This was what we had come to see.
Planning Your Trip
For the true naturalist like Marc DelSantro, canoeing and camping in the swamp are among life’s great pleasures. Some of his photos from past visits now hang in Atlanta’s Fernbank Museum. For a city girl like me, spending the morning at the East Entrance, then coming back that night for the sunset cruise was just right.
At a five-plus hour drive from Atlanta, a good option is working a visit to the swamp into an already planned trip along the I-95 corridor. It’s only about 45 minutes from Jacksonville, an hour from Amelia Island, or two hours from Savannah. If you prefer to stay close by, we loved the Inn at Folkston*** just 15 minutes from the East Entrance.
However and whenever you go, know that a small band of Brits went before you. They loved experiencing America’s natural bounty, and some genuine Southern hospitality along the way. Foreigner or native, you're sure to enjoy your Okefenokee adventure, too.
*Marc Del Santro is an acclaimed wildlife nature photographer, writer and poet. See why at www.delsantrophotography.com
**Okefenokee Adventures: Marc’s top choice for an outfitter that respects and helps preserve the swamp, and the group we happily used for our sunset cruise: www.okefenokeeadventures.com
***We enjoyed our stay at the Inn at Folkston, www.innatfolkston.com
Bookmark/Search this post with:
