Discover Vancouver’s Jade Peony, Chinatown and the City’s Best Beer…

Over the years, I’ve developed the habit of reading a historical fiction set in the place I’m about to visit.  For the American Midwest it was Willa Cather’s O Pioneers!.  For Rome, Pope Joan by Donna Cross.  For Vancouver, I chose Wayson Choy’s The Jade Peony*.

Set in Vancouver’s Chinatown in the 1930s and ‘40s, and told from the perspectives of three young siblings, the story opens an intimate window onto the socio-political realities of first-generation Chinese Canadians.  This lovely book did a lot to increase my interest in seeing the real thing.   

Mark and I have visited the Chinatowns in London, New York and San Francisco, and we were looking forward to visiting Vancouver's, the second-largest in North America.  These past experiences heightened the disappointment we felt when we finally arrived, especially after the scary encounter we had on our way to get here (skirt.com/shetravelsnearandfar/blog/getting-around-vancouver-our-first-tourist-sights-scary-encounter-and-pot-).  We were surprised by how small, dusty and deserted things seemed.

But no matter, we were on a mission to find the Sun Yat-Sen gardens, the first Classical Chinese Gardens outside of China itself.  The garden’s namesake, Dr. Sun Yat-Sen, visited Vancouver several times as he travelled the world raising money to overthrow the Quing dynasty and bring democracy to China.  He eventually succeeded, and in 1912 became the first President of the Republic of China.  The gardens were built in the 1980s to promote continued understanding between these two nations. www.vancouverchinesegarden.com

At first blush, the gardens lacked the visual impact I’d expected.  No babbling brooks through hillocks of green here.  But the tour was beginning, and our guide was instantly impressive, friendly, and knowledgeable.  In fact, everyone we encountered at this non-profit showed an obvious love and respect for the place.

We quickly learned that everything in the gardens is deliberate, designed to create a specific result or solve a particular challenge.  For example:

*The floor at the entryway is hand-laid stone and shell, arranged in intricate patterns.  The guide invited us to find the one intentional flaw, placed to avoid offending the gods, who would be jealous of perfection.

*The covered walkways throughout the gardens are crooked, zigging and zagging with no apparent architectural necessity.  Evil spirits evidently cannot turn corners, so guests can proceed into the gardens unmolested.

*The walkways are also divided into two sides by a wall, with an occasional window or door allowing view of or passage to the other side.  This allows men and women to enjoy the gardens at the same time, without violating the traditional morality rules prohibiting intermingling between the sexes

So if you like these kinds of details and stories, the gardens are worth a visit.  If you’re just looking for a pretty spot, you might be happier in the (free) public gardens just next door, or Stanley Park.

Mark and I had spent the better part of the day on our feet, and decided it was time to sit, rest, and have a drink or two.  Our travel agent** had recommended the Yaletown Brewing Company in trendy Yaletown, Vancouver’s answer to New York’s meat packing district.  We loved the place.

We found a great table on the flowery loading-dock-turned-patio, and settled in for a few hours of mean card playing, fueled by cheese and artichoke dip, and of course, beer.  Sample one of the seven beers always on offer, or indulge in one of their seasonal or specialty brews.  Once you do, you’ll see why YBC is consistently voted Canada’s best brew pub.  Next time we’re in town, we’ll be back.  www.markjamesgroup.com/yaletown.html

Now that Mark and I were feeling relaxed and well-watered, our thoughts turned to plans for the evening: dinner at the famous Granville Island Public Market followed by improv comedy next door at The New Review Stage ….skirt.com/shetravelsnearandfar/blog/discover-vancouver%E2%80%99s-granville-island

**Sheri Doyle, www.pnwjourneys.com.  You can read about the great hotel she found for us in Vancouver at skirt.com/shetravelsnearandfar/blog/wonderful-wedgewood-hotel-spa-vancouver-0.